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Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Roads?? Where We're Going....We'll Need Roads.

If you are reading this, you already know that our hobby of choice isn't exactly light on the wallet.  There are, of course, miniatures to buy not to mention rulebooks, paints, dice, markers, storage cases, etc.  However, once you have the armies, you need something for them to actually fight for...which brings me to terrain.

Everybody has their own thoughts on battlefield terrain, whether it be something pre-made and bought on Ebay, a 'kit' like the ones made by Games Workshop or even DIY hand-made, there are a lot of options to consider. Almost two decades spent playing Warhammer 40k has swelled my terrain collection to include all three of these categories and though it might be pretty easy to drop $40 on a beautiful looking piece, there's something incredibly satisfactory about designing, assembling and painting your own scenery.  This of course has the upside of saving some big bucks with the downside of spending the extra time crafting as opposed to actually playing.

When I decided to embark on this quest to start a brand new wargaming pursuit I knew I would literally be starting from the ground up.  Warhammer 40k, like most popular miniatures games today, is fought in the 25mm scale, where 1" equals roughly 6'.  On the other hand, because of the amount of men and equipment in a typical 19th century battle, this has to be dropped to adequately accommodate the amount of miniatures and space needed.  The wealth of ACW (American Civil War) miniatures available in 15mm made my choice of scale easy.  The overall scale varies slightly by ruleset but the ones I chose to go with for my first few battles, Warlord's "Black Powder" (which I will cover in a later post!) go with a general scale of 1" = 30 YARDS when using 15mm models.

In basic terms, this means that almost all of my existing 40k terrain aside from some hills and smaller trees has instantly been rendered obsolete for use in my future battles in 15mm. *cue sad trombone*

When working up my budget for this venture, I realized I would have to get back to basics and get my hands dirty, so to speak.  As I said above though, this is not necessarily a bad thing!  It's been well over 10 years since I've made any terrain on my own so I thought I could make this a learning experience for everybody. So, while awaiting my masses of pewter to arrive in the mail, I've put myself to work making things for them to fight over and as everybody knows, it's hard to go anywhere in the 19th century without a road. 

Having never made any roads before and not finding much help in the way of tutorials on the internet, I accepted the task at hand and set my mind to coming up with something cheap, quick and effective.  Then, I had a dream.  

Yes. I literally had a dream one night about how to make roads and you know what, it worked!  I'm not sure what this says about me as person but I am pretty pleased with the outcome.  So, without further ado, let's get started.

You will need the following basic supplies:  PVC Glue (Elmer's or the like), scissors, a sheet or two of poster board, ruler, pencil, some craft sand, an old paint brush or a foam edger and a can of brown spray paint.  For the poster board, I figured brown would look best but then I realized that it's also one of the least 'zazzy' colors out there and nobody in their right mind would pick brown for anything presentation-related.  Thus, with brown poster board unavailable I went with green as that's pretty much all they had besides neon yellow, neon orange, neon blue or neon white.

The tools of the trade.

The first thing you will want to do is to measure and cut an initial piece of poster board that can be used as a template for the rest.  For this scale, I settled on individual pieces that are 1" wide by 6" long.

The template -- 1" x 6"
Once you have cut the template, start tracing til your heart's content.  The general idea here is that each 1"x 6" piece of road will actually consist of two pieces of glued together to make them sturdier and prevent curling later on in the process.  So, one foot of road will actually be four 1" x 6" pieces.

Ready to go!

When all of your pieces are cut, pull out your glue and brush/edging sponge and get busy.  Your goal here is total coverage.

Glob it on in any design you like.  I'm partial to the squiggly.

Then smooth it out, making sure the entire surface is gluey.

Next, glue the two halves together, making sure to run your fingers around the outsides to ensure that everything sticks.  In order for everything to dry properly, place the glued sections on a flat surface with something heavy on top and wait 15-20 minutes.  For the married individuals, you can use this time to empty the dishwasher, take out the trash, or do something else suitably helpful that your partner will appreciate.  This will help take the heat off of further nerdy pursuits.

I recommend using something that has a plastic surface/cover to avoid damage from rogue glue.

Now...go be productive.

When the glue has dried, remove the sections from the 'press' and admire your handiwork.

When you're sure the glued pieces are suitably dry, break out the glue, brush and sand.  Just like you would if you were basing a regular mini, spread the glue over the entire top surface and sprinkle the sand on, making sure to gently shake the piece off in the bag.  Your road section should look something like this:

 Let the pieces sit and dry for another 15-20 minutes.  When this is done, the fun part begins!  For this, I used Krylon brand Indoor/Outdoor - Satin Finish.  They had a few different shades of brown but I went with the darkest.  Find someplace with a lot of ventilation and line up the roads on a cardboard box, paper bag, etc.  If your pieces suck up the first couple of coats don't worry, just be persistent and it will fill in.

The dry time will vary on how much paint you have to use.  When they are dried though, you'll find that you'll have a sturdy yet semi-flexible piece of terrain.  The roads are ready to use in this condition but for those of you who want to take the extra step towards scenic beauty, just a few more minutes are required.

Head over to the painting table and find some browns that are a shade or two lighter than the base color.

Using an old brush, dip into the next lighter shade, in this case GW's Bestial Brown, wipe off a majority of the paint on a paper towel and gently run your brush over the top of the road.  This technique is called drybrushing and will cause the paint to adhere only to the very top of the sand, causing a shadow effect that will give the road a little depth and make it look more 'used'.  Repeat this with an even softer coat of the lightest shade.  I went with Reaper's Tanned Leather.

Before and after drybrushing.

That's it!  Believe it or not, the drying time is what takes the longest in this whole process.  To counter that, I found that working on a large batch of 10 sections or so at a time works best, as by the time you are finished with the last section in the group, the first one should be dry from the last step.

Now all that's left to do is put the roads on the field and get fighting!

You see kids? Dreams really do come true!

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